Thursday, July 18, 2013

Give thanks for Mole Skin at the Vatican

On Monday, July 15th, 2013 we spent the entire day at Vatican City. We went prepared-fully charged camera, manual fan, prebooked tickets and a picnic lunch. 

Let me just start off by saying that I am by no means uncultured. I've been to the Met in New York (twice!), I worked in Balboa Park for years and spent time exploring the museums and I know the basics in analyzing artwork. That being said, nothing could of prepared me for the art and beauty we saw at the Vatican museums. I didn't think anything could blow me away like the David did in Florence or the Dolce Palace in Venice. The Vatican took it to a whole new level. Mind you-I can only imagine how they were able to collect so many rare and stunning pieces of artwork. I don't think they were all donations. I do think there was some "snatching" (Super Nels word of the year) involved. 

What you have to understand (and I didn't until we got there) is that Vatican City is made up of tons of museums. Each one has its own masterpieces and they deserve time and energy to be explored. I knew right away we wouldn't be able to do half of the museums (I heard someone say that if you had 8 hours a day for 2 weeks you still couldn't see every piece in the museums). So we narrowed it down to what we really wanted to see. 

I have always been a huge fan of Ancient Egypt. When I was younger, I used to think I was a reincarnated princess from the times of the pharaoh's. I would dream that I lived in a city full of pyramids and tombs filled with Mummies. I'm embarrassed to admit how many times I've seen the movie "The Mummy" just because I love looking at Ancient Egypt on screen. You can imagine my level of excitement when I learned that the Vatican had an Egyptian museum! There were pieces of stone and marble covered with hieroglyphics that tell stories about the people who loved during this time. The artifacts from this era were in such great condition it almost made it hard to believe that they were from thousands of years ago. Also, there was a mummy still in tact and you could even see her fingernails! I learned that the first part of mummification was to soak the body in salt. The amount of time you were in the salt depended on your wealth and statu-s. The really wealthy would soak for up to 30 years in salt to preserve the body (I heard this fun fact from a tour guide). The intricate artwork on a socoughagus (sp?) looked like it took years to paint. 

After the Egyptian art we toured the Museum of Tapestries. I know this doesn't sound as exciting as the Sistine Chapel but let me tell you-these tapestries are about two to three stories high and as long as a school bus. You have to image that someone used thread to create an image and it couldn't of been easy with such a large canvas. One tapestry depicted the Last Supper. The table that Jesus sits at is created in such a way that no matter what angle you look at it from the tip of the front corner of the table looks like its coming towards you. 

We explored other museums as well-the apartments, tons of marble statues and paintings. Super Nel and I made a game out of the artwork and statues-we'd go learn about one thing each, then meet up and pretend we're curators of the museum and teach each other what we'd learned. At first we did it as a joke and a game but it turned out to be fun and we were able to see more of the museums this way.
A bronze statue of Hercules in the Greek art exhibit. Greek history was one of my favorites to study in school. 

Money saving tip: food in the Vatican is limited and expensive! Pack a lunch in your day bag and save money to enjoy gelato later. We got a few states when I pulled out bread, almond butter packets, jam, fruit and leftover spaghetti. I'm pretty sure they were thinking "She's smart" either that or "Damn Americans."

 After lunchtime we were ready for to see the big one-The Sistine Chapel. 
Michelangelo's biggest creation has more than 3 million visitors each year. Once we were inside we were lucky enough to snag a seat against the wall in order to sit and enjoy the beauty. We had rented an audio tour and we sat in the chapel for over an hour learning about the history and challenges it took to create such a masterpiece. My favorite part are the alfrescos. They look real and are filled with so much color they come alive before your eyes if you look at them long enough. One fact the audio guide tells you (that I agree with completely) is that even though Michealangelo wasn't overly religious he had an excellent understanding of the bible, it's stories and its interpretations. Super Nel said that this was his favorite part of the Vatican. I loved it too, but the Egyptian art will always stand out in my mind as the best. 
This is 1/8 of the chapels artwork. Each painting tells a very intricate and detailed story. 

After the Vatican we took a siesta before coming back to see St. Peter's Basilica. Some travelers from Seattle that we met in Cinque Terre had given us the tip to do St. Peter's in the afternoon. They said the line is substantially shorter and the wait becomes minimal. We were happy for the advice because this is one attraction you can't purchase advanced tickets for (none are necessary). Before I share our experience inside, I just want to say that at this point we've been inside almost a dozen outstanding churches, cathedrals or basilica's. Each one has been grander and more ornate then the last. I wasn't expecting this one to be much different. I was wrong. This church was HUGE! It honestly feels like 15 giant churches all put into one. The reason is because there are so many different alters and praying areas. In the center is one large alter with a staircase that leads down to where St. Peter is said to have been laid to rest. Super Nel found these secret holes in the floor. They look like all the regular decorations in the floor but they allow you to see down to the floor below you and watch as the Pope and his people start walking towards the upper levels. This church is extremely overwhelming-you look at one amazing painting, statue, fountain, alter or ceiling and as you try to get a closer look you get distracted by something else! It was hard to take it all in because its so vast. One thing I really enjoyed, were the statues of the women saints and nuns. The Catholic religion always puts so much emphasis on the male roles that the feminist in me was happy to see some female representation in the church. We made our way over to the St. Peter statue to follow tradition and touch his foot (which will supposedly bless you and bring you good luck). The left foot of this statue had been rubbed and touched so many times its become thin, flat and the toes are no longer recognizable. 
St. Peter's statue

One of the female statues inside St. Peter's. 

What the secret floor holes look like. 

One of the MANY alters inside the bascila. 

The Swiss Guard is given the challenge of protecting the Vatican. There's a list of requirements these young men must meet and years of training are required in order to become a Swiss Guard. 

Rome is a city filled with so many awe-inspiring monuments, churches, ruins and artwork. I would definitely come back again. But after two days of walking on cobblestone streets our legs and feet were hurting. Bad. Luckilly, I'd brought some mole skin. You slap a piece of this stuff over any blisters or sore spots and you're as good as new. I don't think I would of been able to explore Vatican City as much without the moleskin. So I highly recommend you put some in your luggage if you're planning a trip that involves lots of walking. 

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