Home sweet Home

The flight home was not as exciting (or comfortable) as the flight to Germany. No one passed out or had a heart attack so we were stuck in economy class. It was a looooonnnng flight. Plus we traveled for over17 hours including layovers and stops. I kept getting up in the long flight to stretch, do lunges, wall sits, squats, jumping jacks-anything to keep blood moving to my legs. The other passengers kept looking at me like I was nuts but all I could think is "No DVT for me."

The girl sitting next to us had a horrible cough and proceeded to cough for the 10 hour flight!!!! She wouldn't even cover her mouth. The germaphobe in me was desperate for a mask. I had actually brought one with me but I left it in my checked luggage. I used my wrap to make a scarf and held it in place using my earphones. 

When we arrived in San Diego my body was so confused. It believed it was only 6:30pm but it felt so tired since we'd been away for almost 24 hours. 

We fell asleep at 8pm without even unpacking (which I always do after a trip). Backpacking was great-it's changed something inside me. I appreciate different cultures more than ever, I have a bigger passion for art, culture, history and architecture than I ever did before, and I just don't sweat the small stuff. And let's be honest-it's all small stuff.

This trip was perfect for Arnel and I.  I think we've come home happier people and more appreciative of what we have. We're become better thinkers, more patient and focused because of it. And I hope that carries into our professional and personal lives. 

This will be my last post until our next great adventure-which I promise will be soon! Thank you to everyone who read about our travels. I checked this morning and the tally so far showed that 1244 views had taken place of this blog-woohoo!! For a first time blogger, that's pretty good. Now I did find it funny that the nude beach entry had a ton of views-in addition to our long flight to Germany which included the emergency rescue. 

Please feel free to tell your friends planning a trip to Italy to contact me if they have any questions. I have a ton of info and learned even more that I will gladly share. 

Its Saturday in San Diego-I woke up at 7am after 11 hours of sleep in the best bed. I woke up determined (not to unpack) to get a ticket to Comic Con....when there's a will there's a way!

Final Day in Germany

We flew Ryanair back to Frankfurt on Thursday, July 18th. We took a bus ride from the Rome train terminal to the airport because Ryanair always flys out of these obscure airports out of town (which is why it's so cheap). 

Our bus was supposed to leave at 6:30am. We arrived at 6am and joined the crowd of people who were waiting. It wasn't really a line, more of a mob. As it got closer and closer to 6:30more and more people arrived. The bus shows up at 6:41am and people are antsy. Then the person loading the bus doesn't ask anyone to make line and just starts taking tickets for whoever puts them in her face.  Now, luckily Super Nel noticed early on that everyone had this special yellow plastic boarding card that we did not have and he went to get one from the bus office. Some people who did NOT get the card were being asked to go get one before boarding. There were more people in line than there were seats on the bus and people were yelling and cussing in Italian and I felt bad for the lady taking tickets but I couldn't help thinking-the really need to make a better system for this. 1) they need a sign that says "The line starts here-make a single file line. No holding spots" 2) they shouldn't sell more tickets than they have spots on a bus. Or have multiple buses 3) Also include on the sign "Must have yellow boarding card in addition to a ticket in order to get on bus. These can be obtained from the bus office"

It was kind of stressful but we made it on the bus and we made our flight. When we arrived in Germany I noticed right away that you get a feeling that you're in another country. Sometimes when you travel to another country and you're in the airport you don't necessarily know you're anywhere different. That's not the case in Germany. There's all these trees right outside the airport and the buildings have this look about them that screams "German engineering" and everything about Germany is energy saving. For example, the escalators stand still until you get on them-then they start moving. They're motion activated. 

Our hotel for the night was super nice and close to the Frankfurt airport. In the hotels in Europe we discovered some of their energy saving techniques (that the US needs to do). At most hotels you use your key card to turn on the lights and ac by sticking it in a hole in the wall by the door. When you leave your room you take your key and everything turns off. Also, if you open the widows it automatically shuts off the ac so you don't waste electricity. Brilliant right?  We did some exploring in the town to get some last minute souvenir's and we stunned upon a festival in a town square. You know what that means....currywurst!!! And our last meal in Europe was at this super cool place called the Bull and Bear. They have delicious cocktails (think the Tractor Room) and we drank as much beer as we could. We spent the evening talking about the trip and how great it is and what it's going to be like to go home. 

We already miss Europe and are discussing coming back in January to Spain and France. 

Pit stop in Naples

After our hot and fun day in Pompeii we headed back to Rome in order to catch our flight back to Germany the next day. We had a few hours to kill in Naples so we decided to try out a famous Napoleon pizza. It didn't disappoint. It was definitely different than the other pizza we'd tried in Italy but it also tasted like some of the yummy pizza we've had back home. I think it's the wood burning stove technique they use. The crust was delicious. Before leaving Naples we grabbed some gelato and the guy serving us thought Super Nel was from Brazil. 

When we finally board our train back to Rome (2.75 hours) we learn that there's no a/c on board. There's a screen that says the temperature inside and outside the train. It's 2 degrees hotter than outside. I honestly start to get a little hysterical from the heat. I just start laughing at nothing and can't stop. Arnel doesn't share in my laughter. He's even hotter and keeps asking "how long is the ride??"

Here is Super Nel desperately trying to find a way to cool off on the train. The window only opens a tiny bit but he realizes if he puts his hand on the corner of the window it blows the air down. This is how he rode the entire way back to Rome.

There was a couple across from us on the train and when the guy fell asleep his gf applied makeup to his face. It was pretty funny. 

When we arrive in Rome it's close to 9pm. We're hot and tired from all the walking in Pompeii but we figure its our last evening in Rome and we should go out. We decide to go see the Trevi Fountain at night. It looks even more beautiful at night. But it's even more packed!! It's like every single tourist and their mother had decided to congregate at the fountain. 

After looking at the fountain we decide to head back to our hostel. Before we had set out to see the fountain I had circled on the map our hostel and the fountain and then given it to Arnel-he's good with maps. So we start walking back and nothing looks familiar to us. We're on the right streets but nothing stands out. Mind you, this is the same hostel we stayed at 2 days ago. You'd think something would  be familiar. What we do notice is the time-it's now after midnight and there's hardly anyone around anymore. So we pull out the map again (hoping it will magically make our hostel appear). That's when it hits me: there are TWO hostels with the same name! Ours is called Alessandro Downtown Hostel and the other is Alessandro north Hostel. Their owned by the same company too. We'd walked to the wrong hostel. 

Now when I think about it it's kinda funny   But at the time it was not. We finally arrive at our hostel and pass out. Our Italy vacation has come to an end. It's been everything we dreamed of an more. But we're sad to see it end. 

Now a wrap up on our Exofficio underwear. Their actually really great traveling underwear and will probably be the only ones I pack when I travel from now on. But there's no way you can go more than a day without washing them. At least not in hot weather. It's impossible!!! Super Nel says he could get away with 2 days. My response to that: yea but on the second day I never wanted to be downwind from you. 

A Day in Pompeii

I woke up really excited to go to Pompeii. This was another unplanned day we had chosen to use to explore the historical site. I have been reading about Pompeii for years. I love the history-the story is saddening, but the fact that an entire town (multiple towns) was preserved after such a tragedy is unique. I remember when the Natural History Museum in SD had the Pompeii exhibit. I really loved it but I wanted more. I wanted to see the houses and the streets and everything that still stands after thousands of years. 

Our hotel had a free breakfast and with our new lunchbox we were able to pack enough for a Pompeii picnic. We navigated the Circumvesuvia train to Pompeii and checked our backpacks at luggage storage. The weather was hotter than hot so we had sunscreen on, cooling scarf, hats, umbrella for shade and a squirt bottle that Arnel got for 1euro. 

We'd debated on whether or not to do a tour. I heard the audio guide isn't too informative and the tours are pretty strict where I kinda wanted to follow our own plan at our own pace (we tend to need lots of breaks in the heat). So the day before I downloaded Rick Steve's self tour in his book about southern Italy ($4.99 on iTunes). I had the book on my iPhone and I highlighted all the paths and places we'd visit. I highly recommend doing this-we met another guy at Pompeii who was following the Rick Steve's tour and he said he's used them for different places he's traveled and he's always been happy with them. The tour tells you exactly which direction to go, what landmarks to look for and where to turn. Then when you arrive at the destination he gives you details about the location. You can also download an audio version for free with purchase of the book.

We started by going into the marina. The book explains how Pompeii was a bustling city during 79 AD when Vesuvius  blew its top. What I like about this city is that there was no social class seperation. A wealthy person would live next to someone with less money and this was very common. 

The walls are all pretty much intact throughout most of the city. The ceilings however caved in a few hours after the ash started falling on them. The weight of the volcanic ash is what caused them to fall. 

Now the citizens of Pompeii were genius-they would flood the city streets every morning to clean them and in order to keep their sandles dry they built the elevated sidewalks and placed big stones up high to cross the streets. The stones were big enough for chariots to pass over them. If there was only one big elevated stone this meant it was a one way street. Two stones means a two way street and three or more means it was a busy intersection. 

Arnel on a big stone doing his Captain Morgan pose. 

Three stones = busy intersection

Next we explored the forum and market place. I didn't know what amazing builders and architects existed during this era. They made marble looking pillars by layering bricks in such a way that they had grooves. Then they'd cover them with marble dust to represent marble pillars. It genius I tell you. 

The top part is a pillar without the marble dust applied and the bottom has it added. 

The layering brick process. They've been placed at ab angle to make grooves. 

In the marketplace you could see casts of some of the people that stayed behind after the volcano erupted including some of the pots, vases and other goods that were preserved by this natural disaster. 

This cast is of a resident of Pompeii that didn't survive the eruption. She was pregnant at the time of death as is evidenced by her swollen stomach. Also, she is wearing a belt around her waist which was common of most salves of Pompeii. 

Another cast that shows someone crouched down and most thought the person was crying but in fact is praying. 

We toured the baths which were very well preserved. There's a steam room with grooves put into the wall so that the water that builds from condensation doesn't splatter on you-instead it comes down to the ground. They thought of everything. 

These small statues and square holes are still intact and were used as lockers while you took a bath. 

One of the biggest houses in Pompeii had 47 rooms and these amazing mosaics in the ground in different rooms. You can see a variety of colors used to create the picture. 

This photo was found in a home of two bachelors. It's not porography but instead represents the balance between fertility and money and how with a balance of both you can have abundance.

Speaking of pornography...our next stop was the brothel. They had pillows and beds made out of stone. I guess they didn't want customers to get too comfortable and want to stay after their services. On the wall are paintings and some believe it was the menu of services. In one picture you can make out a woman wearing one of the first bras ever seen. 

One of our last stops was the theatre. They had more than one! It was here that it really sunk in that Pompeii was not too different from our towns and cities. They have a variety of religious monuments, a marketplace, brothels (we call them strip clubs), a courthouse and people divided into neighborhoods with areas to meet up and socialize. Two thousand years later and we're still living the same life as the people of Pompeii. I hope we have a better outcome. 

Do you see the giant stones  sitting on? Their called Beaver Teeth. They were used as a barrier to indicate its a no chariot zone. 

We found a quiet street with a little shade and ate our picnic. I loved sitting the quiet surrounded by ruins eating my sandwich. 

This day was another dream come true. It felt so good to see everything I've read and heard about. The city is huge! We only saw a very small amount of what there is to see. Plus there's another town that was preserved from the blast as well nearby. Vesuvius is still an active volcano. There are people who have built their homes up the mountain. Most locals don't think it will ever erupt again. I don't know if I'd be willing to take the risk...

Day of Relaxation and Rest in Sorrento

After all the walking and touring we did in Rome we were in dire need of doing nothing with our feet up. We used one of our free unplanned days to take a train down to Sorrento and enjoy the beach. We took the 5am train to Naples (mainly because it was so cheap-11euro!) and then hopped on the local Circumvesuvia train to Sorrento. We'd been warned that pickpockets are always out in full force in Naples and even more so on the Circumvesuvia train. We had our bags locked and in our laps the entire time. 

After spending some time in Italy and Germany I've made an observation: most people don't go out of their way to smile and say hello. Italians especially tend to keep to themselves and only greet you when you're being introduced or at businesses. I'm not saying that they're rude-they're not. Everyone is friendly and helpful. But back home I like to walk around with a big smile on my face and see how many people I can make smile back. Here in Europe however people look at you like you're crazy and give you a look that says "What's wrong with you?! Why are you smiling? You must be American." What works best is if you walk around with a slight scowl on your face (imagine you were just woken up from a nap or deep sleep by an annoying loud noise-that's the face I'm talking about). Then, if you make eye contact with someone just give a slight smirk/smile and a nod of your head and then look away. The Europeans respond better to this then a smile and a hello. Again-this is my own personal observation. 

On the Circumvesuvia, we put on our scowl faces, made little eye contact and kept two hands on our backpack at all times. And we were fine. I didn't see any shady stuff go down. When we arrived in Sorrento, we had to hunt down our hotel and we felt pretty proud of ourselves because we did it without any mapquest, google or English.  I'm getting more and more confident in my Italian. It probably sounds like Spalian (Spanish+Itialian) but it does the trick. We checked into our room and were so happy to have a huge room, huge bathroom and a mini fridge. We did laundry, took a mini-siesta and then hit the beach. 

The route to the beach had this tunnel-luckily it was short, lit up and everyone had on suits at the beach.

The beaches in Sorrento have a lot of rocks, cliffs and pebbly beaches. It doesn't make them any less beautiful. The water temperature was perfect since it was a such a hot day and we stayed in the water for hours only getting out to reapply sunscreen. I thought of another must pack tip for anyone backpacking in a sunny place: a big floppy hat. Europeans don't really wear baseball hats so I tried to find something a little more stylish while at the same time easy to pack. My friend Jenny recommended the brand Walleroo. It was perfect-their hats can be scrunched up or rolled in a ball and they still hold their shape. They also have SPF 50 built into the material. 

Later that evening we explored the small touristy town of Sorrento. We tried their #1 gelato and it didn't disappoint. This specific place has a sign out that says "We're keeping an eye on the royal birth-as soon as Kate and William deliver their baby we'll hand out free strawberry cheesecake gelato to anyone nearby." I'm assuming Princess Kate is still with child because we didn't get anything for free. For dinner we tried a restaurant recommend by a local. It was hands down our best meal of the trip. While I've been writing this blog Super Nel has been keeping a journal. His entries are all about food. His Spaghetti Carbonara in Sorrento wins as his favorite meal.  

One of the statues in the main square. 

Our sunset photo

We tried the famous Limoncello liquor made in the region. It's made from lemons that are the size of a small football and its strong!! After our one drink we stumbled over to enjoy the sunset and called it a day. I can honestly say we haven't stayed out anywhere too late on the trip. Mostly because we're exhausted by the end of the day and we usually have to be up early the next day. The main reason today was because we had two 5 euro bottles of wine we'd scored in Rome and wanted to finish them in order to lighten our load before heading out the next day. Mission accomplished!

Average size lemon

I highly recommend taking a train ride to the South of Italy for a relaxing day. If we could of spared another day we would of continued down to tour the Amalfi coast. 

Give thanks for Mole Skin at the Vatican

On Monday, July 15th, 2013 we spent the entire day at Vatican City. We went prepared-fully charged camera, manual fan, prebooked tickets and a picnic lunch. 

Let me just start off by saying that I am by no means uncultured. I've been to the Met in New York (twice!), I worked in Balboa Park for years and spent time exploring the museums and I know the basics in analyzing artwork. That being said, nothing could of prepared me for the art and beauty we saw at the Vatican museums. I didn't think anything could blow me away like the David did in Florence or the Dolce Palace in Venice. The Vatican took it to a whole new level. Mind you-I can only imagine how they were able to collect so many rare and stunning pieces of artwork. I don't think they were all donations. I do think there was some "snatching" (Super Nels word of the year) involved. 

What you have to understand (and I didn't until we got there) is that Vatican City is made up of tons of museums. Each one has its own masterpieces and they deserve time and energy to be explored. I knew right away we wouldn't be able to do half of the museums (I heard someone say that if you had 8 hours a day for 2 weeks you still couldn't see every piece in the museums). So we narrowed it down to what we really wanted to see. 

I have always been a huge fan of Ancient Egypt. When I was younger, I used to think I was a reincarnated princess from the times of the pharaoh's. I would dream that I lived in a city full of pyramids and tombs filled with Mummies. I'm embarrassed to admit how many times I've seen the movie "The Mummy" just because I love looking at Ancient Egypt on screen. You can imagine my level of excitement when I learned that the Vatican had an Egyptian museum! There were pieces of stone and marble covered with hieroglyphics that tell stories about the people who loved during this time. The artifacts from this era were in such great condition it almost made it hard to believe that they were from thousands of years ago. Also, there was a mummy still in tact and you could even see her fingernails! I learned that the first part of mummification was to soak the body in salt. The amount of time you were in the salt depended on your wealth and statu-s. The really wealthy would soak for up to 30 years in salt to preserve the body (I heard this fun fact from a tour guide). The intricate artwork on a socoughagus (sp?) looked like it took years to paint. 

After the Egyptian art we toured the Museum of Tapestries. I know this doesn't sound as exciting as the Sistine Chapel but let me tell you-these tapestries are about two to three stories high and as long as a school bus. You have to image that someone used thread to create an image and it couldn't of been easy with such a large canvas. One tapestry depicted the Last Supper. The table that Jesus sits at is created in such a way that no matter what angle you look at it from the tip of the front corner of the table looks like its coming towards you. 

We explored other museums as well-the apartments, tons of marble statues and paintings. Super Nel and I made a game out of the artwork and statues-we'd go learn about one thing each, then meet up and pretend we're curators of the museum and teach each other what we'd learned. At first we did it as a joke and a game but it turned out to be fun and we were able to see more of the museums this way.

A bronze statue of Hercules in the Greek art exhibit. Greek history was one of my favorites to study in school. 

Money saving tip: food in the Vatican is limited and expensive! Pack a lunch in your day bag and save money to enjoy gelato later. We got a few states when I pulled out bread, almond butter packets, jam, fruit and leftover spaghetti. I'm pretty sure they were thinking "She's smart" either that or "Damn Americans."

 After lunchtime we were ready for to see the big one-The Sistine Chapel. 

Michelangelo's biggest creation has more than 3 million visitors each year. Once we were inside we were lucky enough to snag a seat against the wall in order to sit and enjoy the beauty. We had rented an audio tour and we sat in the chapel for over an hour learning about the history and challenges it took to create such a masterpiece. My favorite part are the alfrescos. They look real and are filled with so much color they come alive before your eyes if you look at them long enough. One fact the audio guide tells you (that I agree with completely) is that even though Michealangelo wasn't overly religious he had an excellent understanding of the bible, it's stories and its interpretations. Super Nel said that this was his favorite part of the Vatican. I loved it too, but the Egyptian art will always stand out in my mind as the best. 

This is 1/8 of the chapels artwork. Each painting tells a very intricate and detailed story. 

After the Vatican we took a siesta before coming back to see St. Peter's Basilica. Some travelers from Seattle that we met in Cinque Terre had given us the tip to do St. Peter's in the afternoon. They said the line is substantially shorter and the wait becomes minimal. We were happy for the advice because this is one attraction you can't purchase advanced tickets for (none are necessary). Before I share our experience inside, I just want to say that at this point we've been inside almost a dozen outstanding churches, cathedrals or basilica's. Each one has been grander and more ornate then the last. I wasn't expecting this one to be much different. I was wrong. This church was HUGE! It honestly feels like 15 giant churches all put into one. The reason is because there are so many different alters and praying areas. In the center is one large alter with a staircase that leads down to where St. Peter is said to have been laid to rest. Super Nel found these secret holes in the floor. They look like all the regular decorations in the floor but they allow you to see down to the floor below you and watch as the Pope and his people start walking towards the upper levels. This church is extremely overwhelming-you look at one amazing painting, statue, fountain, alter or ceiling and as you try to get a closer look you get distracted by something else! It was hard to take it all in because its so vast. One thing I really enjoyed, were the statues of the women saints and nuns. The Catholic religion always puts so much emphasis on the male roles that the feminist in me was happy to see some female representation in the church. We made our way over to the St. Peter statue to follow tradition and touch his foot (which will supposedly bless you and bring you good luck). The left foot of this statue had been rubbed and touched so many times its become thin, flat and the toes are no longer recognizable. 

St. Peter's statue

One of the female statues inside St. Peter's. 

What the secret floor holes look like. 

One of the MANY alters inside the bascila. 

The Swiss Guard is given the challenge of protecting the Vatican. There's a list of requirements these young men must meet and years of training are required in order to become a Swiss Guard. 

Rome is a city filled with so many awe-inspiring monuments, churches, ruins and artwork. I would definitely come back again. But after two days of walking on cobblestone streets our legs and feet were hurting. Bad. Luckilly, I'd brought some mole skin. You slap a piece of this stuff over any blisters or sore spots and you're as good as new. I don't think I would of been able to explore Vatican City as much without the moleskin. So I highly recommend you put some in your luggage if you're planning a trip that involves lots of walking. 

Roma

We arrived in Rome on Sunday afternoon via train from the Cinque Terre. It was a 4 hour train ride and we passed these little coastal towns right on the water. It made me want to get off the train and jump in the sea. We were excited to see Rome, but at the same time I think we were more worried about pick pockets. We'd been warned by everyone that Rome is notorious for scams and cons.

Once we checked into our hostel we put on our walking shoes and applied some sunscreen. It was HOT in Rome but that's to be expected in July. What I don't understand is how the Romans don't sweat?! They are dressed to the nines in dresses, cardigans or full suits and they don't have a single bead of sweat on them! I on the other hand look like a wet seal covered in a sweat puddle. 

We explored Ancient Rome our first day and we walked around for 8 hours straight. We didn't use a single transportation source that first day. By the time we made it back to the hostel we were hobbling. The cobble stone streets are rough on your calves and feet.  

All the ruins and historic landmarks in Rome are so much bigger in person. I was most excited for the Colosseum. It was as grand as I pictured it. As I walked up to the structure I could imagine the cheers of the people as a Gladiator slaughtered his opponent. I could envision the Romans cheering for the Gladiator to finish the defeated foe. Little did they know that they were given this "entertainment" to distract them from their hunger and struggles. It worked. 

Our colusseum "self portrait"

As we explore the fountains and Ancient Rome capital (what's left of it) I'm overwhelmed by the fact that thousands of years ago this was the actual thriving town I learned about in History class so many years ago. I love history. I used to pretend I was living during all the different eras we'd discuss in class and envision what life would be life. As a Roman I think life would be grand but difficult. The Romans had so much pride in their art, buildings and warriors. 

Caesar statue in front of the Roman Capitol ruins

We explored are the big sites-forum, pantheon, arch, Trevi fountain, Santa Maria Maggiore, Palatino and more. It honestly feels like you're in another world. I would definitely come back to Rome but maybe not in the summer...

Arch of Constantine 

My favorite site was the Trevi fountain. I could sit here for hours and look at the fountain. 

Backpacking Tips Part Duex

We're on the last leg of our first (of many hopefully) European Adventure and we feel we've done pretty good as beginner backpackers. 

There's some things we wish we'd packed and have made notes for next time:

-a flashlight with an on/off button

-a fan (either a mini-battery operated one or a manual one)

-more ziplocks! 

-a few plastic grocery bags (to use for when we pack a picnic)

-foldable cooler or insulated lunch box. We actually went on a huge scavenger hunt in Rome to find one (3 euro). This is important if you're packing your own meals and taking them with you to places such as the Vatican or Pompeii where food options are limited and prices are high. Also, it keeps your drinks cool. 

-Swiss Army Knife-for the record-Super Nel really wanted to bring one of these. But since we were carrying on our luggage we left it behind. If we were only going to one country we would of brought one and checked a bag. 

-Umbrella-not for rain but to block the sun. We actually bought one for 3euro because it became so necessary. It came in very handy while in Rome and we an to use it in Pompeii. 

-Crystal Light and other little packets to make lemonade or flavored water. 

Things we packed and will always pack again:

-Collapsable H20 (this is especially useful in Rome where they have these exquisite fountains everywhere that give you cold drinking water.

-A wrap or large scarf. Arnel and I each brought one and its served multiple purposes-covers exposed areas when going into churches, look fancy, make a shelter with 2 sticks at the beach, picnic blanket, beach towel, the list goes on. 

-adapter and mini power strip-most hostels only have 1 or 2 outlets in the room. The mini power strip allows us to share the outlet and still charge 2 iPhones, iPad/iPod and camera

-Waterproof large document folder-this has all our museum passes, maps, hotel/hostel confirmations, etc. It's come in handy because sometimes our bags get wet from clothes, towel, H20 bottle but at least our documents don't (and always keep your passport in a ziplock)

-Combination lock and little zipper combo locks. We both have a day bag and we're paranoid about anyone unzipping it while on subways or crowded areas. So we use a small luggage combo lock on our bags. Sometimes it's annoying having to open lock to get something out but we both feel a lot safer having them on. We figure even if someone tries to cut the lock off we'll feel it happening and give us the chance to intervene. So far, so good. The  combo lock is for lockers at hostels. We also brought a cable lock to secure or bags together on long train rides or when we do luggage drops. I don't recommend locks that require a key. I overheard someone lose their key while at a hostel. Combo locks just require a little memorizing (I recommend emailing the combos to your email just in case)

-small coin purse. My cousin Ricky gave me this idea. He keeps his coin Euros in the bag for easy access. I ended up dumping my jewelry into a ziplock and using that bag as a coin bag. 

-Bring a camping spork. We found some at REI. On one side is a spoon, the other end a fork and one of the fork edges is serrated like a knife. This comes in handy for picnics or meals on the train. 

-Baby wipes, Kleenex, disinfectant wipes and magic soap. The first two are for the bathrooms. It's not uncommon to find a bathroom without tp or paper towels. The last two are for germaphobe in all of us. I use the wipes to clean surfaces in hostels and hotels. Also I use them to wipe down the machines for audio tours. Magic soap (hand sanitizer) is good because sometimes there isn't anywhere to wash your hands and you're hungry.

-Sleep sack-this is NOT a sleeping bag. Some hostels charge for sheets so this helps save money. It also serves a second purpose. Since I'm a germaphobe I have trouble sleeping in a hostel bed on their (clean) sheets. My sleep sack goes over the bed so I don't have to touch anything. You can buy these online for about $20. Luckily Arnel's mom is a seamstress and made us ours. Their light and cool (which help with the heat if there's no a/c) and easy to pack. 

Tip:

This is a HUGE tip. PRE-PURCHASE all your museum/main entrance tickets before you leave home. 

This seems like a no brainier to me. Why wouldn't you do this? I actually did it at the last minute before departure because we were so busy before the trip. But I would of been very unhappy if I'd forgotten. 

Every museum we've been to has had a line with a minimum wait of 2 hours just to get a ticket. Yesterday at the Vatican the line just to get through security to buy a ticket was almost 4 hours long. Now take that wait time and imagine waiting standing up, surrounded by people and in the HOT sun! There's rarely any shade where the lines are. 

Pre booking tickets was the smartest thing we've done. I honestly don't think we would of visited the museums otherwise. I look at all the people in line, miserable, unhappy, hot and sending me dirty looks because we're going to the front of the line and I think to myself "Why didn't you prebook???!" I used the company ticketitaly and I recommend it. They send you a voucher that you print out-it has your museum name, date, time, a map and you take that to the front of the line, get real tickets and walk inside. The only excusable reason for not pre booking is if your trip is completely unplanned and you're not sure how long you'll be in each place. In this case I say but the tickets online the day before you know you'll be going. There's really no excuse for not buying tickets early. Unless you like sweating to death with the person behind you breathing on your neck and standing in the hot sun for hours. If you enjoy doing all that then by all means-don't prebook. 

-packed our own food for our day in the Vatican

-Almond butter packets, bread, jam and fruit from the Tuscan hotel breakfast and leftovers from dinner the night before. 

My birthday suit

So here we are in Italy-the country that has the famous phrase "When in Rome, do as the Romans do." Does that apply to Cinque Terre? 

Super Nel and I have just hiked a dark tunnel of doom and now down a very steep cliff to get to this secluded, quiet and gorgeous beach.  But it turns out it's a nudist beach. When I ask the people who live on the property "just how naked do you have to be?" The response is "as naked as your comfortable with."

At the beach there are about 10-12 other people spread out and for what I can see when I glance around they are all butt naked. Now I'm the last person to be uncomfortable naked. Mr. Richard and I call our apartment "Naked House" and clothing is always optional. I appreciate the human body and love my own. I'm the girl that would walk out onto our balcony in Cabo every morning naked just to see what the weather was like (hot). Naked is not a problem. But naked on a beach where everyone has now turned their head towards you as you climb down starts to feel a little uncomfortable. I tell Arnel that I don't know about getting naked (the walk from the sand to the water is kinda far and now starts to feel like a runway for a model show. 

Just then we hear more voices coming from the trail. It's 3 girls and their speaking English!!! Real English, not Brit, Austrailian or Canadian English. This is good for 2 reasons-one, if they don't get naked then I won't either and two-maybe they have real flashlights and we can all go back through the tunnel together. 

Again-I'm trying not to stare at anyone on the beach and make anyone uncomfortable but I'm trying to see if the American girls are getting naked. I glance over at them and see them taking off their clothes under a towel. Dang it. Now I feel like I have to represent or else I'm the stuck up American that doesn't blend in. So I compromise-I take off my top and run splashing into the water. 

The water felt soooooo goood!!!!! We still don't know if the water in Cinque Terre is part of the Mediterranean or not. We felt more buoyant that's for sure (or maybe I did because of the two free floating boobs I was sporting). Either way the water was great. Now the American girls are getting in the water and I glance over and see that THEIR WEARING BIKINIS?!?? WTF???? Two of them are wearing strapless bikinis so I guess when they were changing under the towel it made it seem like they were getting naked. Now I feel underdressed. 

I was not the only naked girl there. After we arrived more and more people started showing up and getting naked (but I was still the only American). Arnel says "who cares? You're on vacation." Mind you, he's not naked. He saw a guy wearing a pair of shorty shorts and at the last second decided to keep his board shorts on (after I'm topless). 

It really did feel nice to be floating in the water and I stopped caring after a few minutes that my girls were getting some unrestricted fun in the water. 

The American girls-named Kaitlyn, Kaitlyn and Carly-and Super Nel and I are doing the famous 5 conversation (that's what I call "What's your name?" "Where are you from?" "How long are you traveling" "Where have you been?" "Where are you going next?"). We find out that they are traveling for 5 weeks and 2 of them are from Indiana and 1 from New York. 

We also find out that they are staying in the next town up and they hiked to the beach. No scary tunnel for them. We tell them about our adventure and they say they might join us on the way back (and they have phones!)

After an hour of enjoying the beach we start drying off and head back to the tunnel with our new friends. I tell them that I speak Spanish and to just play along as we pass the nomads. They agree. 

The man I originally spoke with is not at the tunnel entrance and two other guys start gesturing to the donation pot. I tell them that we already donated, than them and head into the tunnel. Two guys follow us into the the tunnel and sit down in chairs and watch us walk away. Crap. 

Two of our new friends have phones with flashlights and it makes the hike a lot better because we can see. But now that we can see in the tunnel it looks even scarier. I keep thinking we'll see bones or bodies inside. Arnel took the lead (he was dying to get out) and I was in back. I had to stop every now and then to make sure no one was following us. It was almost as scary as walking through the first time. But better because we had more people. One of the Kaitlyn decides to make a video during the hike and starts narrating in the tunnel. All I can think is "BLAIRE WITCH PROJECT! Noooooo!!!"

Once we were out we decide to go enjoy a victory drink together. We go to a little bar I read about and have some local wine. Corniglia is known for its basil and they make the most amazing pesto. And it just happens to be the day of the pesto festival! We really enjoyed spending the day with new friends and it turns out one of the Kaitlyns is in nursing school in New York. 

After we part ways Super Nel and I go check out the beach at Monterosso. It's a sandy resort beach with a beautiful view. 

Now the Cinque Terre is not known for its nightlife. Some town bars and pubs stay open late but the trains to and from each town become limited. I had mentioned this to Super Nel before we went on exploring but he asked a local about the train schedule and they said it runs until midnight. Imagine our surprise when we're 4 towns away from Manarola where we're staying and we're told there are no more trains running. 

We're both exhausted from the day and its past my bedtime. Plus we still have to walk up a huge hill to get to our hostel. IF we can get back to hostel. It wouldn't be a big deal if we didn't have to catch a train to Rome in the morning and we only had our daypacks. 

We luckily are able to find a taxi that will take is to Manarola for a ridiculous amount (those of you who know about Super Nel's $30 bath? The cab ride was a bubble bath all over again). The ride to our town was long, windy, and dark. But we made it safe and sound to our hostel and passed out. It would of been the deepest sleep of my life if our room hasn't been hotter then a sauna. No a/c and the only thing moving the thick hot air around was an ancient ceiling fan. At one point in the night I woke up and tried to kick off the blankets only to realize I had no blankets. It was just hot. 

Now to go explore Rome....

Our new friends brave enough to walk the tunnel of doom with us. 

The Dark Tunnel of Doom

Ahhh, the Cinque Terre. There are not enough words to describe our experience yesterday. But Super Nel says I should at least try. Our day in this area of Italy was nothing like what we expected. 

First, let me tell those of you that don't know-the Cinque Terre (pronounced Cheen-qu-whey-tear-aye) is stunningly beautiful. I first heard about these 5 tiny unique towns from a friend at the rec center, Miss Gina. Each of the 5 towns is known for a specific good (ie. basil, olives, anchovies, etc). All the towns are connected by trails that you can hike or you can take a small train. The whole area was declared a National Preserve a few years ago. We purchased a card that lets us hike each trail, take trains and buses without paying individually. The five towns from North to South are called Montessero, Vernassa, Corniglia, Manarola and Roggimilio (sp?). Our hostel was in Manarola. When we arrive in the little town you have to climb a very steep hill up to a church and our hostel is behind it. The climb up that hill left us drenched in sweat. It was the hottest and muggiest day that we've experienced so far. Super Nel says the climb up that hill was worse than the Duomo. 

The view from the train platform in Mantarola

After checking in we put on bathing suits and head to Corniglia to hit the beach. The two easy trails we'd planned to hike were both closed due to a recent landslide so we decided on one tough hike. We met a 65 year old woman from Austrailia on the train that said she was doing the Corniglia to Vernassa hike. If she can do it, anyone can do it. 

During my research of the Cinque Terre a  beach in Corniglia kept popping up and reviews said it was gorgeous, visited by locals only, hard to find and known as a secret. I had written down directions that literally consisted of "Follow a red brick wall, after 300 meters you'll see a tunnel, exit tunnel..." We are following these directions and we're not anywhere near ANY other people. We're sweating so much you'd think it's raining. Part of the directions take you to through this housing complex. Finally we find a tunnel. Now there are giant yellow and red exclamation point signs that are in the shape of yield sign above the tunnel while at the same time someone has spray painted in blue "Beach--> this way." The woman at the Cinque Terre tourist center had told us to bring flashlights because the tunnel is dark. Good news-we did pack flashlights. Bad news- our flashlights are tiny pen lights we use as nurses and you have to hold the button down with your finger or else it turns off and the light is very faint. 

We're sweating so much, its super hot and the tunnel feels cool inside. We are honestly debating what to do. On one hand we are dying to try something that thousands of tourists are not doing but on the other hand we want to be safe.

Luckily, at this point a man exits the tunnel wearing a headlamp. I approach him and ask if he speaks English-he doesn't-he DOES speak Spanish though! I'm silently thanking my grandma again for the millionth time for giving me the gift of being bilingual. The man says the tunnel is about 10km and takes about 5-10 minutes to walk through. We show him our lights and he looks at us like "Really?! That's the horse you bring to a rodeo?" So he takes pity on us and finds us these walking sticks. He shows us how to tap the stick on the wall in order to stay on the edge and feel where we're going (envision a very poor woman's way of a vision impaired stick). The man also tells us that the beach is on private property and its customary to donate a few Euro to the people who own it. I had read this online so we had a few Euro in our pockets. What we didn't have (and Arnel and I both said we'd have given our return tickets home for) was our cell phones. We left them locked up in our lockers because we were worried about losing then at the beach). We could of really used the flashlight app in this tunnel. 

Now we are about 25 steps into the tunnel and its getting darker and darker. I should pause at this time and tell you two things: One-for those of you who don't know-I was diagnosed with Generalized Anxiety Disorder about 4 years ago. It's pretty well controlled and when I do get anxious I use behavioral and cognitive techniques to work through the anxiety. This includes deep breathing techniques, guided imagery, talking, writing, calming music, exercise, etc. Before we left for Europe,  I had a big  panic attack. I haven't had one since nursing school. Panic attacks feel awful and I don't wish them on anyone. When I told Arnel about it, we discussed the source of my anxiety-the length of the flight to Europe, my lack of sleep during the last 2 weeks (I'm a big sleeper), and the fact that we were going to a continent neither one of us had been to and what if we get sick, lost, hurt, mugged. He was really good at helping me calm down and focus and reminded me that we can't control what will happen but we can't let it control us either. We just have to hope that whatever we face on this trip we'll be able to handle. I felt much better. Now imagine my surprise when Arnel- the love of my life, my rock, my calming influence-starts to have severe anxiety every single time we go from one city to the next on our big adventure! I noticed it first in Germany on our way to Venice. Then from Venice to Florence it was really bad and I acknowledged what I thought he was experiencing and Super Nel agreed that he was having awful anxiety. We kinda joked that I was supposed to be the one freaking out and that I wanted a turn. 

Now fast forward to a dark tunnel in a tiny village in Italy that neither of us has been to. We don't know if its safe. If something happens who will know where we are? We have no phones. No real flashlight! All I can think is "Please don't let me become one of those "lost Americans" I hear about on the news." We are now about 1/8 of the way through the tunnel and its so dark that when my fingers cramp up from pushing my light and it goes dark you can't help but lose your breath in fear. It was scary in there. At this point I'm leading and I know Arnel is just as terrified as I am but he's probably anxious too. We found out later that this tunnel was the old train passage. However,  in the tunnel we didn't know this-the current train now runs right OVER this tunnel. So we literally start yelling, hugging and plastering ourselves to the wall of the tunnel the first time a train goes over us. It sounds like it's coming RIGHT at you. Anyone ever seen Ghostbusters 2? Where Winston gets lost in the subway tunnels and a ghost train comes at him? That's what I was feeling at that moment. 

It gets worse. This entire tunnel hike is a battle of mind over matter. We are practically blind in a deep tunnel. If something happens we have a long way to go BACK and we still can't see anything in front of us. You start thinking of ghosts, murderers and who knows what else and you have to will yourself to stay calm, focus and in control. Now we're about 3/4 of the way out of the tunnel and we start to hear what sounds like whispering? Or rusting? And there are these carved out rooms coming up that we can see with our lights. We start calling out "Hello!!!!" No response. "Hola????" Nada. "Bonjourno?" More whispering/rustling. That's when I realize its running water on the sides of the tunnel. Arnel doesn't believe me. I recognize the sound because it reminds me of one of those fountains people have in their homes. We're getting closer at this point to the light at the end of the tunnel and we decide it might be best not to announce that we're American (no more signing "God Bless America") just in case there's someone on the other side that isn't friendly. So I whisper to Arnel that we should only converse in Spanish (mind you, he knows about thismuch non-medical terminology Spanish). So for the rest of the hike I make comments in Espanol and Arnel says "Si" and "Me gusta."

Now we're coming around the last curve before we're outside of the tunnel and that's when we hear it....real voices. Lots of them. I can see people walking around  what looks like a makeshift campsite/house next to the tunnel exit. There's about 5 men and 1 woman that I can see and the best word I can use to describe them is "nomadic." They look like possible gypsy's if you believe in them. They have a shelter and wooden table and they have a look about them that shows they haven't bathed in awhile. Right away one of them shouts at me and starts speaking Italian. He starts walking towards me and makes some gestures that look like he's saying "I need to search your bag or pat you down" I'm freaking out at this point. I explain I don't understand in Italian and he asks if I speak English. Too scared to admit that I do I ask if he speaks Spanish. He does. He guides us over to a bowl that has a picture of Jesus on it and a few Euro on it. He asks if we could contribute to the bowl to help keep up the property. I pull out the 4 euro we already had in our pockets. All the other people are standing around just watching us. The man who is speaking to us asks where we're from and points to Arnel. I say in Spanish that he's Filipino. The man asks what part of Mexico I'm from and I name the town my grandpa and grandma come from and that seems to satisfy him. He asks if I'd like to view the beach from his "house" and then guides me over to a ledge. My survival skills have me flexing my arms and I refuse to turn my back to anyone. As I walk over to peer down to the beach I see a giant knife on the table laying next to some opened coconuts. I start laying out a plan to run away if necessary while Arnel stands there assessing the situation as well. 

I glance down at the beach and remark on its beauty. The man gestures towards the trail that leads to it and I thank him for his assistance. 

The beach really was beautiful-and worth the scare of a lifetime. I can already hear some of you (my mom included) WHAT WERE YOU THINKING???? I honestly said that to myself during some parts of the tunnel hike. Then the other part of me that loves adventure, that never takes a risk, that has always wanted to see this country and all it has to offer would say "What do you want to tell your great-grandchildren about this trip?" Because you know I'm going to be one of those great-grandmas that makes her grandchildren listen to hour long stories about my life that they will hate and then love when I'm gone. I want my stories to show that I explored the off-beaten path. I was adventurous and I enjoyed the life I've been blessed with. And now I can!

One more thing to add. This trip has been wonderful for Super Nel and I. Not just because its fun and exciting. But because its shown us what kind of team we can be together. We know now that we won't be defined by our genders. Just because he's a man doesn't mean I can't be the leader during scary tunnel hikes.  Just cause I'm a girl doesn't mean all I'm good for is making food (honestly if you want us to ever cook anything really tasty you should ask that do the chopping and cutting only because Arnel is the better chef). Some of the things we've bought and made on our own have been by Super Nel's hands.  I've always wanted to be in an equal relationship with someone who values me for who I am and loves me for it. Arnel and I bring out the best in each other and we love each other even when we're at our worst. I can also promise you another thing. When Arnel is telling our great-grandkids about that scary hike,  he'll tell them that he was so glad that we did it. He'll admit he was scared but remind them how thrilling it feels to conquer a fear and that its more wonderful to do it with someone you love and that supports you. 

By the way...did I mention that as we start heading down the trail to enjoy the beach the man shouts in Spanish that its a nude beach. What???More in my next blog post...

Coincidence?!

While in Venice we met a very nice couple from the states while on our Murder, Mysteries and dark stories in allies Tour. Imagine our surprise when we see them in Florence on our way to climb the Duomo! What are the odds?! There are literally thousands of people in Venice and Florence right now. What are odds of seeing them again?! We were so excited to bump into each other again even for a 5 minutes. Turns out they're from Weatchester, NY and they have fallen in love with this country just as much as we have. 

1 Mile...1 bottle of wine

Today we woke up in the country of Tuscany-the most beautiful region of Italy there is in my opinion. The only reason I woke up is because Arnel said "It's 8' o clock. The free breakfast ends in an hour. Since we'd eaten a lot of peanut butter the day before I was excited to get some food-especially since its free. Now I don't know about you, but when I think of continental breakfast I envision some bananas, a bagel and maybe some juice if you're lucky. This was NOTHING like what we expected. 

We walk onto the breakfast room, after being greeted by the nice receptionist, and its a HUGE buffet spread. Not just cramp they went out and bought either-it's amazing and delicious home made food that two chefs make from scratch. There's fresh homemade breads (variety),  homemade jams, bruschetta, eggs (boiled and scrambled) and the best bacon I've ever had, there's fresh yogurt made on a nearby farm that I added baked granola and flaxseed to, fresh squeezed juices to drink and fruit picked straight off a tree. Needless to say Super Nel and I are in heaven. We didn't know what to eat first. Oh did I mention the spread of fresh meats? Salami, Prochutto, some other meat I don't know of and cheese. And the breakfast is FREE!!!

For two semi-budgeting backpackers this is a dream come true. And I just so happened to have brought my daypack with me including ziplocks so we stashed a ton of food inside to eat for lunch and snacks. We talked about this meal the rest of the day. 

After breakfast we go into town to climb the Duomo. I have to admit that it looks really tall and difficult and I was worried about passing out or fainting from the dizziness. There are ambulances parked around the Duomo and I'm assuming its for the people that faint or lose consciousness from the heat-I really didn't want to be one of those people. Plus it was 85 degrees today and humid! But I did it!!! One step at a time I kept telling myself. I thought of the amazing view we'd enjoy once we got to the top. I thought of how many years I looked forward to this trip. And I made it. And guess what? The climb (463 steps) is honestly not that bad at all. We did sweat quite a bit and huff and puff but we made it. And the views were amazing!!! 

After the Duomo we stumbled upon the Florence outdoor market and we stocked up on raw almonds, Italian rice crackers and dried papaya as snacks for the rest of the trip. 

We headed back to our hotel to lounge in the pool and play some ping pong. I can't recommend this hotel enough. It's a renovated old farmhouse that is owned by a family. They are all about customer service and treat you like you're royalty. It's called Il Borgo Villa Castelletti. Seriously-were talking 5 stars here. After a siesta we grabbed our 5 euro bottle of wine, sunscreen and some music and went for a hike on the property. One mile and one bottle of wine later Super Nel and I were convinced we had found the epitome of beauty (and a little drunk). There's a natural preserve on the property-a huge lake, horses, trails and a river to follow. Best hike ever. 

We're kind of bummed to leave Tuscany but really excited to tour the Cinque Terre tomorrow. All the locals have been telling us how much we'll love it. 

Our breakfast buffet-sorry for the blurry picture but I was too eager to dig in to take a steady photo. 

Enjoying breakfast-did I mention the cappuccino was the best of my life?

Random fact: Italy's version of sugar, Splenda and raw sugar

Panoramic view from top of Duomo

You can see for miles up there

I felt like I'd made it to the top of Everest