Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Classic Golden Circle

On our next day in Iceland, we had booked a tour through AAA to travel the Golden Circle. The tour was through Gray Line and we were blessed again with a great tour guide and driver. 

Our tour guide reminded me of Micheal Caine (Alfred from the new Batman movies). Maybe it was his accent or his looks but I thought he was the perfect guide. Sadly, I forgot to write down his name.

This tour would take us on the classic Golden Circle stops which included the Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall, Geysir hot spring, Haukadalur geothermal area, Hveragerdir earthquake town and the Faxi waterfall. The pick-up for this tour was at 7:30am and after our late night tour with Olafer, we were tired. But luckily, this tour was on a big charter bus and a total of 16 people so we were able to spread out and nap in between stops. I found it hard to close my eyes because I wanted to stare out at the scenery while we were driving. We passed an area that is the definition of "Fire and Ice." It's lava fields full of snow. So it looks like dark rocks being hugged by ice. 

When we arrived at our first destination, Thingvellir National Park, it was pouring rain. Our tour guide told us the famous Icelandic quote "Think this is bad weather? Just wait 5 minutes." We waited but it just seemed to rain even harder. Thank goodness one of the layers we did pack was our handy dandy North Face Rain Jacket (best deal we ever bought-we sucked up and battled crowds day after Thanksgiving to get to The North Face Outlet and scored these batboys for $30-regularly $120).

Our guide showed us inside the visitor's center on the Iceland map where the tectonic plates are located and how they work to create earthquakes and make more land (one day Iceland might be a hop, skip and jump away from New York). 2 centimeters of the land expands every year by tectonic plate movement and the crevices fill with lava therefore expanding the land. However, every year Iceland loses 1.5 centimeters of the glacier because it melts (global warming anyone?), so overall Iceland grows a net of 0.5 centimeters every year. 

Next, we walked outside the visitor's center (read: a wet walk) to see the place of Parliament. There's a canyon that we walked through and our guide said originally the people of Parliament wanted the Prime Minister to walk through the canyon on the way to the house. However, the secret service said "hell, no!" They said they'd have to worry about snipers every single day. 



After the National Park, we went to see the Gullfoss Waterfall. Our guide told us the tale of this waterfall. It was originally owned by a farmer-Tomas. He was approached by a company who attempted to buy the waterfall to use for energy purposes. However, Tomas declined to sell the land the waterfall was located on. Later, Tomas had some money trouble and he sold the land to a fellow farmer and they made a gentleman's agreement that the other farmer would sell it back to Tomas once he was back on track financially. Well, the company that wanted the waterfall approached this other farmer and offered him a crapload of money and he sold it. So, the daughter of Tomas, Sigríður, walked into the city of Reykjavik (this was a week's worth walk in one direction) and tried to fight the sale of the waterfall. She went to court and rallied media about this whole ordeal. She had to walk back and forth into the city TWELVE times! In the end she lost in court. So Sigríður said publicly that she would rather jump off the waterfall and die than see it sold to a company. This is what generated enough attention to make this area a national park. Boy am I glad she did because it really is beautiful. 



The Little Superheroes love waterfalls

We walked down to the viewing center to see the waterfall and it was pouring rain again (of course) so we enjoyed the pounding of the waterfall before walking back to the visitor center and warmed up with some Icelandic Lamb Meat Stew (it's really yummy). We also broke down and purchased more warm clothes. Super Nel got a new beanie (he'd forgot to bring his today) and I bought another wool base layer. It was the difference between being freezing and uncomfortable and warm and happy. There's no price for that-ok there is a price and in Iceland it's pretty steep but worth it to keep going on the adventure. 

Next, we went to the Geysir hot spring and geothermal area-this might have been our favorite part of the tour. The Geysir is HUGE and is supposedly the nephew to the original Geysir. The original Geysir stopped spitting out water a few years ago-every now and then it will spout but for the most part it's retired. The working Geysir was full of life and we had a blast trying to get a video of it erupting. It was funny to watch people get wet every time it blew up. 




Our next stop was the Faxi waterfall. Faxi supposedly means horse's tail. I think this waterfall might be the biggest horses tail I've ever seen and it was gorgeous. 




Our tour guide said this waterfall is a favorite of the locals and that they enjoy coming with family on the weekends to picnic and drink a few bottles (his words, not mine). There is also a huge metal structure nearby that is divided into what looks like pie slices. It turns out that every spring, the farmers release their sheep to go "marinate" in the mountains. This means the sheep eat off the land and get fat and juicy (no steroids or force feeding of sheep in Iceland). Then in the spring, the sheep are all herded into this metal structure and sorted by farms. The farmers come to collect their sheep and they have a celebration (apparently there's more bottles that are opened as part of the celebrating). Then the sheep are taken back to the farm and turned into lamb stew....use your imagination for that one. 

After the Faxi waterfall, we had a surprise stop to see some Icelandic horses. I really liked this stop because I love the size of these horses. 
They almost look like a really big pony but smaller than a horse. 

They were friendly, they would lick you and nibble your hand (sadly, I didn't have any treats). I learned that if I did have treats they wouldn't like carrots-instead they like fresh pieces of bread. These horses are bred, sold and very expensive. You see lots of them all over Iceland and they come in a variety of colors. 


We stopped at a special church as our next destination. There is a scandal that goes along with this church. Our guide told us about the scandal on the way to the church. One thing that makes our tour guide so entertaining is his ability to tell us all these entertaining stories as part of the history. He played on the show "Scandal" and kept asking who likes a good piece of "juicy" gossip before telling the story. This one was about a Bishop who moved to this small Icelandic town with his daughter. He had a tutor come everyday to teach his daughter since she was a very bright young lady. However, some of the towns people began to gossip and some said that they saw the tutor going in to see the daughter at all hours of the night. You can imagine that not too many lessons were done in the evening unless it was a special night of astrology. The gossip spread and eventually reached the ears of the Bishop. So he had numerous heads of the church come into their town and had his daughter put her hand on the bible in front of all these men and swear that she did not have any relationship with the tutor that was inappropriate. She swore that her relationship was appropriate. However, nine months later she delivered a baby boy that looked very similar to the tutor.....Our guide said that after giving birth, the baby was taken away from the daughter by the Bishop and the daughter later died from illness. The Bishop felt guilty for what he had done to his daughter, so he decided to raise the baby. The child died before he was 9 years old. The Bishop went on to lead a very lonely life and stepped down as Bishop. A few years after that he passed away as well. Our guide did a vote of hands of who believed that the daughter was lying when she swore she hadn't done anything scandalous and most people raised their hands. However, our guide gave us an alternative theory-his own. He believes that the daughter did NOT do any scandalous. She was a very smart young woman and she was lucky to have such a good education given to her so he doesn't believe she would have put that education at risk. However, when her father forced her to swear in front of all those people she was so mad and embarrassed that later that night she called the tutor to her room for a late night astrology session and the rest as they say is history. 

The church itself was very small, but lovely. 

The artwork of the alter was a huge mosaic done by a female artist. She created Jesus not on a cross, but with his arms open in a scenic manner. This is supposed to represent Jesus as an open-minded person welcoming everyone into the church saying "all are welcome here." 
At certain times the light would shine through the window and a rainbow fell on the alter. 

The windows are a different story-they were also done by a female artist and the colored mosaic tiles tell stories. The colored pieces are put together in a very specific way that forms an ancient language. The top windows tell the tale of Jesus in Christianity and the bottom larger windows tell the story of Icelandic religion. I thought the windows were beautiful with the colors. If you stare at them long enough you can almost tell that they speak a language. 







After we left the church most of us were getting pretty tired and it was late in the afternoon. We only had one stop left and that was the Geothermal Power Plant. We took the short half hour tour and learned about geothermal energy in Iceland. It's amazing what this power plant can do. It's the world's second largest geothermal power plant. Guess where the largest one is located? California! Say what? That's what we said. Turns out it's in Northern California, close to San Francisco. The power plant in Iceland works to provide energy, water and heat to EVERY single home and business in the ENTIRE country. 
It's all provided at a very inexpensive price (the guide said that it's supposed to make up for the high prices in everything else). The floors of most homes are heated and this especially comes in handy in the bathroom after you shower. We learned that a machine digs down to the core of the Earth and this releases steam. The steam then goes through these generators and it's turned into energy and warm water. Then the tricky part is next, the steam is reinjected back into the Earth's core and the process starts again. 


The geothermal plant has 7 huge generators that do this process. Every 5 years they turn one off to clean it and otherwise they run non-stop to supply energy to the country. They are currently working on trying to go even deeper into the Earth's core in order to get more steam for more energy. If this works, than other countries will hopefully try to use this same process. I hope we can do this for our entire country some day. Think about how amazing it would be to reuse energy this way? It's cleaner and better for our environment. 

We had a great time on this tour and were really happy we didn't have to do any of the driving. Before we left our guide, we showed him our plans on the map for the rest of our time in Iceland and asked if he could recommend any small towns to stay at on our journey. 

Then we went back to the hot dog stand for a yummy dog. Iceland puts this special brown mustard and yellow sauce on their hot dogs along with crunchy and fresh onions. All the flavors and combination of textures make it a very tasty meal and I'm not a huge hot dog lover. Super Nel loved the brown and yellow sauces so much, he had to find them in the grocery store and bring them back home with him in his luggage-along with a Fanta. Something about the soda Fanta in Europe-they taste way better. I don't even like that soda. However, in Europe it tastes amazing. 

We decided to grab a quick drink at a local bar by our apartment before going to bed. Super Nel ordered a beer that came with a shot of local liquor called Brennivan. We knew that the Brennivan was a licorice based flavor. The shot was tiny, about half the size of a regular shot, but not even 5 minutes after drinking it, did we feel it. You felt warm all over and you started to get really happy. Super Nel said "quick, drink you beer so we can leave or else we won't find our way home."

Don't worry, we made it home. And we finished our beers.

Read about our adventures in driving in Iceland and spending the night in a Mountain Hut in the next blog post. 














Iceland and the Secret Lagoon

We arrived in Iceland around ten in the morning. We couldn't believe that we were actually there! While we were on the bus headed towards the city I couldn't get over the fact that you can see for what seems like miles and its all land. Huge flat land.

Our plan was to stay in Reykjavik, the biggest city in Iceland, for two days and then spend our last few days exploring the south of Iceland where its less populated. Less populated really means less populated since the country has a total of 300,000 people and every single one of them is beyond unbelievably nice.

We checked into our airbnb which was a huge apartment right in the heart of Reykjavik. It gave us the chance to walk around and see as much of the city on foot.
We found this lifelike statue while exploring. 

 One thing we realized right away-it was freaking cold in Iceland. Super Nel and I both agreed that Amsterdam was colder but this was very comparable and it was wetter. We found ourselves looking for extra layers even if everything in Iceland was extremely expensive (I'm pretty sure I paid $8 for a bottle of water at one place). Our goal for this trip was to see the Northern Lights. I had a feeling I might see my husband cry if we didn't see those lights so we went to the tourist office and asked about any tours that might be available. However, sadly we were informed that all the tours ended a few days before. The lady at the tourist center did recommend one tour called the Floating Tour. It involved a 1.5 hour drive to a "secret lagoon" and then you have the chance to float in a geothermal pool while hoping to see the Northern Lights. We signed up for it and found out that the tour included door to door pick up and drop off. The tour started at 8:30pm so we found some yummy hot dogs for dinner (the people of Iceland love their hotdogs!) and took a much needed siesta before the tour.

Now, Super Nel and I had to decide whether or not we would write about the Secret Lagoon tour on the blog. We were really tempted to keep this secret to ourselves in hope that this place will continue to stay a secret. However, in the end we felt it best to share.

At precisely 8:30pm we were greeted at the apartment by Olafer (which is pronounced "Oliver"). Olafer turned out to be one of the greatest people we met on this trip. He was so passionate about his country's history and stories and he went out of his way to show us an amazing evening. When this tour said that it only booked a small group of people each night we thought it would be 12 or 10 people. Turns out there were a total of 4 people. So it was Super Nel and I and another couple from the UK who were celebrating a birthday. Olafer drove us to the town of Fludir where Iceland's oldest pool is located. He told us that this pool had a cabin renovation last June so that there are heated locker rooms and a mini-cafe are now a part of the pool. The pool is open to the public in the daytime and the owner rents out the pool at night for the Floating Tour company. On the way to Fludir we learned a lot about Olafer.

Olafer used to be a farmer and inherited his father's farm. When his father died, there was a huge earthquake (did you know there are about 400 earthquakes a day in Iceland? Small ones apparently). He said that he thought it was his father saying to him "You make me proud." He eventually went into the pizza making business and used the ingredients on his farm to make the pizzas. He would buy the other ingredients from other local places and one of the grocery stores was one of his biggest buyers. He would drive 1-2 hours every day to deliver these pizzas to the buyers and one time in a really bad storm his vehicle was sliding around on the road. So he used the pizza's to help counteract the weight of his car. He stacked them on the hood and attached them somehow (I'd bet he used duct tape) and it kept his car from sliding off the road. Olafer said the pizza making business was hard work.

The entire ride he shared stories with us about the country or towns we were passing through. He also played a variety of Icelandic music the entire ride. When we arrived at the Secret Lagoon we could see why it's called a "secret." I don't think I could find this place again if I wanted to. It's in the middle of no where and is surrounded by hot springs all over. The pool is dug out around the hot springs and is huge. You have a gorgeous deck and nothing is around for miles. Olafer gave us a quick tour before the sun went down at 10pm (I'm not kidding when I say 10pm) and then said each couple could take a different locker room.


The lagoon 

The small shack on the right are the old changing rooms before the new fancy remodel. 

The hotsprings right NEXT to the lagoon. 

When we came out in our bathing suits, we were given a hat to wear made out of floating material. Then we used two long strips of floating material to wrap around above our knees with velcro. This allows you to float without even trying. The water was perfectly warm, which was absolutely necessary because it was freezing cold outside.
I know it's dark but you can see our floating hats. 

So here we are, thousands of miles away from home, floating in the dark in the middle of nowhere in water so warm it feels like a blanket and all I can think is "Is this a dream?" This was more than a magical experience. It was surreal. You almost had to pinch yourself to believe it's true. There was this one moment where Super Nel and I stopped floating and we said to each other that this was hands down the best thing we had ever done. And I was so happy that we were doing it together. Since there were only 4 people on the tour it didn't really matter where you were in the pool you always felt like you had the lagoon all to yourself which added another amazing element to this experience.

As the sky turned black, Olafer said to be on the lookout for any stars through the clouds because this would indicate if we could see the Northern Lights. We floated for about two hours and there were a few moments where we could see some colors through the clouds but they never cleared enough to see the actual lights. After we had showered and dried off, Olafer gave us some hot chocolate and laid out a spread of grapes, crackers and cheese. We talked more about the lights and other places to visit in Iceland while on our vacation. Around 12:30am we set off back to the city.

Olafer was so excited and determined for us to see the lights he drove us a different route back to Reykjavik in hopes of seeing the lights dance across the sky. He would check his app and look up the cloud coverage and drive to a new spot.  Olafer said we were "chasing the lights" on the drive. We stopped at an old volcano crater, but it was still too cloudy to see anything. We drove listening to Icelandic music again until around 2am but we were never successful. Olafer was so bummed that we didn't get to see the magic sky light up. However, little did he know that he just gave Super Nel and I the most amazing night of our lives. We would never forget this adventure nor would we forget this amazing man. He dropped us off at our apartment and we fell right to sleep dreaming of the beautiful sights we had seen that day.

I can't say enough amazing things about the Secret Lagoon. This place won't stay a secret for long. They take up to 15 people a night to their pool and each and every one of them is lucky to float under the sky in Iceland. If you plan to visit Iceland or were thinking of it-I can't recommend this tour enough. If you're lucky enough to have Olafer as your guide, I promise you won't be disappointed. His enthusiasm and dedication to making your night one to remember is unbelievable.






















Egyptian Temple in Spain

We said good-bye to Bree and Dana on our last morning in Madrid. They would go to Switzerland for the last part of their trip and we would go to Iceland. We were sad to leave each other but excited for our next adventure. 

Our flight to get to Iceland wouldn't depart until that evening so Super Nel and I decided to see one last famous sight: An Egyptian Temple. As I said before, I love ancient Egypt so I was very excited to learn that a temple existed in Spain. It was given as a gift to Spain by Egypt. This temple was created by Cleopatra and her husband. 

There were three different parts to the temple. 

The temple is surrounded by water and is at the top of a cliff. 

Inside you can see actual hieroglyphics made by the ancient Egyptians!

Inside the temple




It was a windy and rainy day. 

Overlooking the city from the temple. 

We spent the rest of the afternoon at the local library relaxing before our late night flight.

In order to get to Iceland, we were flying to London and would be there for 8 hours from 11pm until 7am the following morning. 

We discussed just sleeping in the airport instead of wasting time and money to get to a hotel. But in the end, we stayed in a pod hotel room. Yotel Hotel was created through the idea of first class flight cabins. Our hotel room was a small cube with a bed that expands with a remote, see through walls for a bathroom/shower and that's about it (luggage storage under the bed, table that folds out and fold out chairs). It was a pretty cool concept and located inside the terminal. Also, it was less expensive than a regular hotel room. 

When we woke up the next day all we had to do was walk to our terminal. 

Super Nel and I were really excited for this part of our adventure-even if it meant it was almost over. We would do this part of our trip all alone and that too was a good thing. We already missed all our friends who had departed for home or other adventures but Super and I were excited to see a new country together alone as husband and wife. 

Read about our next adventure in Iceland next. 









Madrid on Foot and by Bike

On our second full day in Madrid we set out to see the National Library. 





On our way, we found a monument dedicated to the Spanish Armada and one of the biggest flags I've ever seen. 




La Puerta de Alcalá

We also saw some amazing statues and fountains along the way. The National Library has a museum that talks about the history of the printed word. 





However, only students or other government officials have access to the actual library. I was kind of looking forward to comparing Spain's library with our Library of Congress.

Next, we set off on bikes to explore another nearby park. This park is the second largest park which includes a small botanical garden (home of some peacocks) and a gorgeous rose garden.




Bree loves the bike riding 

Dana really enjoyed the park 
It was different riding bikes in Madrid in comparison to Amsterdam. There weren't as many bike lanes and some areas were tight. However, in the park it felt just right. 

Super Nel attached the Gopro to the bike 



Not my sexiest outfit but at least nothing ripped while riding. 

This looks like I'm wearing a pirate hat. 


A huge beautiful rose garden with a fountain inside. 

The park has huge pond inside and people were out enjoying the sunshine while rowing boats in the pond. 




We loved riding bikes in this park. There were areas with sidewalks and other areas that were dirt roads. Every path had additional paths to take and different areas to explore. 


Super Nel got this shot of me. He made me ride around this fountain in circles many times while he played with the functions on my camera.

We found this botanical garden in the park and it was a peacock sanctuary. There were female and male peacocks and they were everywhere!! Some were even hiding in the bushes. 

Can you spot them? 


They are so beautiful. 

When peacocks squawk, they sound like the bird Kevin from the movie Up. That's how I knew they were at this gatden. I could hear them! 

We played "who can get a better peacock selfie." Here's Dana trying to get her photo. 

Here's mine

Couldn't help but get a few with these guys. 

This one loved to follow Super Nel. 

A female peacock-no bright blue feathers

Some of us were lazzzzzy and took a siesta on the grass. 

This peacock watched the siesta crew.

The view from one of the paths. 

We tried to see as much as we possibly could in three hours. After three hours our bums were getting sore so we went back to walking.

Later that evening we joined a walking tour called "The Secrets of Madrid." It was advertised as a tour that takes you through the back alleys of Madrid and shares some of the scary tales that are a part of the history of this city.

The beginning of the tour started at 7:30pm and most of the stories were related to history of the city. However, as the sun set the stories got darker and darker and you started to get chills up and down your body.

I loved walking around the city at night. 



One of the most interesting stories we heard on the tour was about the Monestary of the Barefoot Nuns. These nuns don't allow themselves to be seen by anyone as part of their religion. They live in a monestary that allows visitors but closes down at 1pm to allow the nuns to shower, do daily chores, eat, etc. 

It was a busy and fun filled day in Madrid and it ended with a delicious dinner. We happened to find a place with a two for one deal on sangria the day before. The pitchers were much bigger than in Barcelona, so we had everyone grab a glass and help us drink up the good stuff-including the Little Superheroes.



Read about our last day in Madrid next.